A
secret hideaway, enjoy a relaxing and leisurely time of your life
Teluk Bahang, a fishing
village is no longer a quiet place in Penang. A majority of us locals,
in our teens will choose to spent time with our friends during the holidays. I am sure
most locals have at least visited it once in their life time.
It was a favorite part for us teenagers wanting to escape our daily routine. Some
would take the holidays to cycle around the island, hike to Muka Head Lighthouse or
camp in the open beaches of Pantai Kerachut.
Today it is a different story. Teluk Bahang
village and town has grown busy. The teenagers turned adults or parents in turn, come
back with their young family and did things when they were young. So this is my
second visit to this part of the island. But I did make
two trips to
see the floating sea lantern during the beginning of the year. And it was in the
evening to participate in the
Indian sea lantern
festivals.
The North Eastern Hills, Wildlife, migratory birds and animals lives in
various habitats on this part of Penang Island. The Department of Wildlife
and National Parks (DWNP) together with the Penang State Government manages
and protects the natural scenery of our metropolitan island.
The Penang National Park opens daily from 8am to 6pm.
I was told the Penang National Park looks after the preservation and protection of wildlife,
plant life, objects of geological, archaeological, historical and ethnological. And other
scientific and scenic interest and through their conservation and utilization to promote the
education, health, aesthetic values and recreation of the people living near the Straits of Malacca.
Photo Enthusiast on the way to Pantai Kerachut by boat
You can enjoy hiking, bicycling, climbing, swimming, fishing or photographing beautiful scenery.
Leisure and relaxing, spotting and observing wildlife or just sit back and enjoy the forest and
marine surroundings would be most ideal to de-stress.
Whichever activities you choose, make sure you wear the right kind of footwear. For photographers, bring
along a water proof bag to keep your expensive camera. To be on a safe side, you don't want your camera to
be soaked or wet.
Bring enough food to last your trip as there is no food stalls in the forest unless the boat
can take you to the inlets of Kuala Sungai Pinang fishing village.
By foot, one can go hiking by two trails to Muka Head or
Monkey Beach which will take you 45 mins to an hour. The Pantai Kerachut and
Teluk Kampi trail is a little longer so with pit stops and rest, you might
need two hours to reach your destination.
I remembered hiking to Pantai Keranchut, we got to turn left
as we reached the jetty. Also the famous seafood restaurant "End of the
World" no longer stood in its spot. We enquired and was told it is now near
the roundabout.
This restaurant was so famous that when you talked about it,
everyone will know you are referring to the seafood restaurant in Teluk
Bahang.
There was no park rangers to report to when you hike in the
Teluk Bahang hills then. Today, to enter the hills, one needs to register
with the Penang National Park office. The forest park rangers will give you
some hints and tips, do's and don'ts before you begin your hike.
As Chandra and I have hiked before, I decided to take a boat
ride, this time to explore the other parts of Teluk Bahang. There are boats
for hire to major 4 parts of the Teluk Bahang shores. A maximum of ten
people can sit in these boats. We were quite pleased with Iskandar and Don
who rode safely and carefully. Care must be given as not to destroy the
fishing nets.
From Pasir Pandak, our first stop was a long ride to Kuala Sungai Pinang
Mangrove Forest. This will lead to the southern part of Penang called Balik
Pulau where there is another entrance into the Penang National Park. It was quite an
experience going into the mangrove forest on the boat. Iskandar, our guide turn off
the engine but not before disturbing the quiet life of the birds and iguanas. We sat quietly
just soaked into the ambiance of the environment.
The Kuala Sungai Pinang Mangrove Forest provides a rich
ecosystems for the wild life of migratory birds, animals alike. And without the
mangrove, there will be no sea life. The tranquility, the absolute quietness can
be appreciated as we saw huge monitor lizards crawling inwards to the mud land.
Migratory birds was such a pleasing sight.
See my Tabblo>
Migratory colorful birds flew off as our boat went deeper into the mangrove.
We had the opportunity to see a few fishermen laying traps for crabs and markers
along the sides of the mangrove swamps. Prawn catching and fish boats were a refreshing sight.
Read
more about Mangrove Forest from here.
After some time in the mangrove forest, we arrive at Pantai Keranchut. From the sea
view, as we approached Pantai Kerachut, it is indeed a lovely beautiful stretch of
sandy white beach.
I would say majority of people have heard about Pantai Kerachut and it would seem to be the most
popular. It boasts a unique & rare geographical phenomenon of a meromictic lake - the lake
(or more a lagoon) is a dry mudbank during neap tides and during the dry season.
Another very interesting activity on this beach is the Green Turtle and Olive Ridley turtle. We
were led to the hatchery to witness the baby turtles. In this quiet and peaceful sanctuary, the eggs
were located from the original spot to a safe place.
Our local university USM (University Sains Malaysia) together with the State Fisheries
Department protects and manages this research station from the time the turtle lays their
hundred eggs. Approximately after 3 months is needed to care for the turtle eggs. Once it
hatches, till it is then released back to the sea.
The sandy stretch is also the nesting place for the Green Turtles (Chelonia mydas) from April
and August, and the Olive-Ridley (Lepidochelys olivacea) between September and February.
The most impressive part of the shorelines of Teluk Bahang is the Pantai
Kerachut or Kerachut Beach. Pantai Kerachut really makes me awe inspired with a
unique & rare geographical phenomenon. A meromictic lake is a lake that contains
freshwater streams. The effect of the Meromictic happens when streams from the
hills and mountains above flows down to partially mixed or wholly unmixed the
water layer with the sea water during a given cycle. ...
See my Tabblo>
Believe you me, it is a very emotional moment when you witness the young ones making
its way out of the shell and getting their first breather.
One can either watch the hatching of the baby turtle or the releasing. So talk to your
guide on the schedule if you want to watch the process. Some pictures were taken by our
team when we were there. Those who went home without seeing the release missed the sunset
in Pantai Kerachut too.
Personally I would recommend staying the whole day but this needs to be arranged. Not for
nothing, Pantai Kerachut is a place to go. I am sure you go home pleased as you have seen the
only Meromictic Lake in Malaysia and feeling reborn seeing the baby turtles.
A mind boggling thought
Approximately 140 eggs a mummy turtle lays. After 60 to 65
days of enclosed incubation, 95% make it alive. After 5 to 6 days of
monitoring, these little babies turtles are released into the sea. If you
have seen enough National Geography, you would know not many make it to
become adult. Actually only1 in a 1000 makes it to adult turtle. And you
know what, if at all they make it, after 25 years, it will make its way back
to its origin
Turtle landing in Malaysia is getting less and less. We need to protect this species. They
are vulnerable from the egg stage till adulthood. The eggs are been consumed as food, the baby
turtles become prey to birds and fish and the adult turtle by fisherman.
To help in preserving this dying species from extinction, stop buying turtle
eggs, educate the fisherman not to kill turtles caught in their nets and do
not pollute our sea.
And do not forget, much as you may loved them after my sharing, please try as much as possible to
refrain from holding them. But if you still want to hold and take photographs, wash your hands
thoroughly after that. And to take a snap, do not use flash as it would blind these little darlings.
The often used trail starts from Pasir Pandak and branches to the left, away from the coast
at the first suspension bridge. This will take about 2 hours to reach Pantai Kerachut. Or
hired a
boat, the guide will make arrangement so you won't be disappointed.
The Muka Head Lighthouse in Teluk Bahang seems to call out to us to climb up the steep cliff.
To let you into a secret, I was never a keen hiker or climber of hills or trail. But
thinking of the long walk or boat ride, I told myself I must attempt this
for at least once in my life. Shame on me, really. It was indeed an
exhausting walk, not for the faint or weak heart. Stern warning to those
having heart problems, do not attempt.
Usually an energetic person would take 30 mins but for me it took 50 mins.
So up we went to the 227 metres or 785 foot cliff. There were 4 resting
wooden cabana for hikers to take a rest.
The Muka Head lighthouse was built in 1883 at a cost of 37,000.00 pounds.
This 115 year tower is now treasured as a historical site. It is still
operational. If you have an opportunity to climb up to the tower in the late
afternoon, stay till the sunset to be bask in the transcendental glows.
Its original lights, fuelled by petroleum vapor, were first installed
around 1900 by Chance Brother Smethwick of Birmingham. In 1954, these lights
were replaced by the same firm using electric lamps, a task made immensely
arduous by the inaccessibility of the tower, and was recorded as
necessitating "five trips a day by Chinese laborers".
The Penang Muka Head Light climb up was indeed a climb I will never forget.
Sitting on a cliff 227 metres above sea level offers spectacular vista views....
See my Tabblo>
After Muka head, we head for our last destination for the day, Sungai
Tukun or Tukun River. The river Tukun flows into the bay. This estuary seems
to be a popular spot as chalets and man made pools are aplenty. There are
several small swimming pools for campers. The piped water is supplied from
the upper stream. Toilet seems to be well maintained and clean.
Proper camping ground and amenities provided by the authority make
camping a luxury. Bird watching should not be missed here. The swimming
pools provided good place for family outings and nature camps.
Many exotic species of flora and fauna can be seen. Two types of monkeys
are found here. The dusky leaf monkeys and the long tailed macaque can be
seen if you are observance enough. Birds are aplenty. Bird watching
enthusiast arm with binoculars choose this spot for their hobby.
The Sungai (River) Tukun flows into Teluk Tukun (Tekun
Bay). A small island opposite is Pulau Tukun Tengah. ...
See
my Tabblo>
There is no permanent accommodation in the beaches or parks
of Teluk Bahang. Daytrips are encouraged and overnight camping are kept to a
minimum. But if you are interested, organized camping can be arranged by the
park mostly for educational purposes.
Near the jetty and village, budget chalets are available and
if your needs are inclined towards 3 to 5 stars hotel, you can booked in
hotels along the
Tanjung Bungah or Batu Ferringhi Beaches. Mutiara Hotel Resort used to
be so popular but today, it stood empty, waiting for its new owner to make
it livable again.
Easy, drive to the north end of Penang following Tanjung
Tokong Expressway, or Vale of Tempe. A long and winding road which has a great
view. It used to be an adventurous road for the cyclist. But now, it has
become far too busy and dangerous for the cyclist to enjoy the uphill and downhill
ride.
Or if you are coming from the south of Penang, drive through Bayan Lepas and circle over
passing nutmeg and durian estate in Titi Kerawang through Balik Pulau to reach Penang National
Park or Teluk Bahang fishing jetty.
No car, take a bus. Fantastic, RapidPenang 101 or KGN (blue bus) starts from Penang ferry
terminal or Komtar. Pick one and enjoy a leisurely ride for 1.5 to 2 hrs
drive through the coastal road of Penang.
We promise you, Teluk Bahang, Sungai Tukun, Pantai Kerachut
or Monkey Beach is one place you must not miss while on holiday or vacation
in Penang.
A rich legend lies behind the origins of Thaipusam.
Thaipusam is celebrated mostly by the Malaysia's Tamil
community during the Tamil Month of Thai (the tenth month of Tamil calendar,
which usually falls between Jan 15th and Feb 15th).
"Pusam" refers to a star which is at its brightest during
the period of the celebration.